Isle of Wight Cheese

Alex Wibberley

Alex Wibberley

I first met Richard about 10 years ago when I was working at The Hambrough in Ventnor. We went up to the dairy for the day and Richard kindly gave us a tour and explained how the cheese is made. At the time the equipment was limited and everything was very manual. Richard was working pretty much every day and he had just three cheeses in the range but the business was growing at a good rate. You could see the passion in Richard and his Mum Julie was also working alongside him. It was lovely to see this small family run company in such an exciting time. Even back then, the process was almost clinical, the space immaculately clean and Richard an obvious perfectionist. Here was someone who had studied a craft and turned it into something wonderful using his passion and attention to detail. I felt it would have been easy for him to run ahead at this point and make a bigger range of cheeses or expand into other dairy products. It was great to see him focusing on creating an amazing small range where quality and consistency were paramount.

 

I started to use the IOW blue as an ingredient on the menu and I made a blue cheese and white chocolate ganache with it for a cheese based dessert. Richard was intrigued and you could tell he was proud to see his product being used in different ways. It is such a creamy flavoursome cheese, with a  consistency and texture profile that really lends itself to desserts. I served the ganache with a walnut frangipane and celery sorbet as a kind of savoury dessert. It remains one of my favourite desserts I have ever made as it really challenges people’s tastebuds and is a real talking point. From there I also made a white chocolate and IOW blue cheese fudge! Richard was visibly excited and keen to explore opportunities with which we could work together. He has always been very forthcoming with advice and encouraging for me to start something for myself.

IOW blue
A dessert from a pop up I did, served in the original blue cheese box

Over the years I have caught up with Richard regularly and he is very approachable when it comes to linking up in business. The Isle of Wight Cheese Co. was an obvious partner for my business Eat Street. We feature the Isle of Wight blue, IOW soft and Gallybagger on our menu in various dishes.

 

When talking about his future plans for The Isle of Wight Cheese Co. he always mentions community and dreams of a place where everyone meets together and shares communal spaces and experiences. 

The passion he shows for this is infectious and has certainly rubbed off onto me and my business now, which is centred on similar ideals. We have had many discussions about joining up for events, special menus and suchlike in the future and I am sure there will be lots of opportunity there. Richard is always happy to have a chat and bounce ideas around.

For me The Isle of Wight Cheese Co. is the epitome of Island life. A family run company which gives as much to the locals and area as it takes and is something we can really be proud of as an Island. When I talk to people living in Hampshire who have tried the IOW cheeses and mention them with such fondness it is very warming to hear. Even having nothing to do with the story of the company to date, a feeling of inclusion is invoked, making you feel as if you are part of it. You tried it first, you once met the guy who makes it, it is your go to cheese……. You tell them of a toastie you once made with Gallybagger or you ask them if they have tried the ‘Old Gaffers’ because you want them to know that you knew about it first. It just makes you feel proud and that is what local companies are all about. When you can see a business caring about the area in which it relies so heavily on for trade it makes you want to be a part of it. And you feel like you are.

iow cheese - gallybagger
Gallybagger

I caught up with Richard over video and we talked about cheese and being an IOW business owner.

How long have you been in business now? 

I started making the cheeses in 2006 so this is my fifteenth year as a cheesemaker.. more than a third of my life!

 

What was it that made you take that first step? 

 Back then in 2006, there was no one making cheese on the island. At the time, the local food movement was really building and seeing as there was no island cheese being made, we thought we’d try and create some. I’d been living away from the island for nearly 10 years when I made the decision to come back and start the business. And I had no cheesemaking experience either, so it was a bit of a gamble. But funnily, I’d be working in Newcastle with a lot of people who had started up businesses and part of my job was seeing how they developed. So I feel I came in to it with a bit of an insight in to what can and can’t work as a business idea.

 

What has been the most challenging thing in running a small business? 

The most challenging thing about running a small business – I would say you need resilience. When you start from scratch and try to build a business so many things come at you and so many things have the potential to go wrong from time to time. You’re juggling all the balls and you’re learning on the spot. It can be overwhelming.

You have to be able to adapt quick, correct things and take all knock backs on the chin. My belief from the beginning was that if I could create a good product, then with a bit of determination it would all work.

 

What has been your biggest lesson learnt? 

Biggest Lesson – You never stop learning with cheese. Most weeks you experience something either with the milk or the process that teaches you something that you didn’t know. Getting an understanding of the science behind cheesemaking was crucial in the beginning. There’s a lot of variables to play with, especially when making soft cheese and without that knowledge things could get messy. From a personal point of view, I perhaps wish I’d delegated responsibilities a bit earlier. For too many years it felt like I was living every hour of every day at the cheese company and that cost me big with family and friends.

 

What do you enjoy most about it? 

Day to day, the thing I enjoy most is the fact that each day I make something that I’m proud of and that ties in with an overall sense of achievement. The business is established now, and each week we sell all across the south of the UK. We’ve won major awards at the World Cheese Awards and the British Cheese Awards as well as countless gold medals but I always feel humbled when people say they know and like the cheese that we make.

 

What is the importance to you in supporting local producers? 

For an artisan cheesemaker or a cheesemaker on a small scale, I think it goes without saying that you want your product to have provenance that your customers can relate to. In cheese of course, the biggest ingredient is milk, so being able to source milk from the Isle of Wight is really important for me. We’re really fortunate that we’re able to buy excellent milk from two farms here on the island. We’ve always prided ourselves on paying a very good price for the milk. We hope that our customers know too that by buying our cheese, they are not only supporting our business but also the two island dairies who we buy from as well. The dairy sector in the UK has taken a hammering in recent years, and when customers buy local, more of their money feeds directly back to the producers and quicker too.

Richard Hodgson

What is your favourite way to eat the Isle of Wight Blue?  

I know cheese can be versatile, it’s one of the reasons why we love it right? But for me I’ll just have it spread straight on crusty bread or even brown toast.

 

If you weren’t a cheese-maker what would you have done? 

I started this cheese journey when I was 26 and I said to myself that if it wasn’t going to work out then by the time I was 30 I would train to become a paramedic. 

I think that’s what I would have done.

 

What’s next for IOW cheese?  

I’ve committed to an extension at the dairy which will increase our floor space so that we can maintain and increase production but do it in less time.

Currently we’re cheesemaking 5 or sometimes 6 days a week and it can be a little relentless. This next move will enable us to make all of those productions in a day or two. It will need additional maturation rooms for the cheese and a lot of extra equipment but we’re ready to move up to the next level now.

Beyond that, there are plans in place to open the dairy to visitors. It’s always been my ambition to provide the local people of Queenbower, Winford, Apse Heath, Alverstone with a stop off where they can see what we do and enjoy refreshments too. With it will come a nice cheese counter as well where we can stock local artisan cheeses besides our own. Providing locals and tourists with a nice place to share in what we do will be the final piece in the jigsaw for me.

 

EAT STREET RECIPE

 

Isle of Wight Soft baked in a small loaf with black garlic.

 

Photo: Eat Street version with bacon jam and pineapple and chilli relish.

Top tip – Put a tray of boiling water in the oven at the start of baking

With this particular bread you need to make a day 1 starter which helps it to develop flavour slowly.  The below instructions will guide you through the full process

Ingredients 

  • 95g water

  • 5g yeast (1/2 a sachet)

  • 4g salt

  • 140g strong flour 

Day 2 

  • 275g strong flour

  • 190g water

  • 5g yeast (1/2 a sachet)

  • 6g salt

  • 6g honey

  • Day 1 starter

Makes 2x 220g loaves (Put your left over dough in your jar to use it as your day 1 starter for next time!) Your ‘day 1 starter’ can survive in the fridge for up to 1 week

 

To make the ‘day 1 starter’ 

Mix all of the ‘day 1 starter’ ingredients together 

 

Put the mixture in a jar or lidded container in the fridge overnight. 

 

To make the bread

Add all of your day 2 ingredients to a mixing bowl

 

Mix your day 1 starter into your day 2 ingredients and develop with a mixer on a medium speed until stretchy and you can almost see through the dough when pulled between your fingers 

dough window - bread

Rest the dough for an hour covered with a lid or tea towel

 

Scale at 220g each and shape to fit your floured proofing basket if you have one or just place it on a lined tray to prove. You can line with baking paper or a silicone mat.

 

Cover with a tea towel and prove until almost doubled in size. I normally just place my bread in a cold oven to prove. This is because it is protected from the cold air which can cause it to skin. The oven has a seal on the door so it is perfect but don’t accidentally turn it on with the bread inside (I have done this!). It just means you don’t need to use the tea towel or cling film etc.

 

Turn onto a baking sheet (skip this step if you already have the bread on a tray and not in a basket) and bake at 220C until golden (about 15 minutes). You can score the top with a sharp knife before baking if you want to make some pretty patterns. It also gives the steam an outlet to escape in a controlled way. It will find a way out anyway so may as well be where you say so! Turn over for the last 5 minutes of baking to colour the bottom and develop a thick crust.

 

Leave the bread to cool for about ten minutes before hollowing it out. If you leave it too long the crust will change from crispy to tough and could tear the bread whilst trying to remove the inside. Slice the top off the loaf using a serrated knife. Cut into the soft inside using a small knife and follow the line of the crust. Using a spoon scrape the edges away and gently tease the inside (mie) away from the crust to leave the bread hollow.

 

Toast the inside separately and dip in your baked cheese.

 

To bake the cheese

Cut small slits in the cheese and stud with IOW garlic cloves, plain or black for something a little different. Make an incision through the centre about halfway deep and bend the cheese to open the slit.

 

Add a sprig of fresh rosemary.

 

Stuff the whole cheese into the bread, gently pulling the crust out of the way without breaking it.

 

Bake at 180C for about 10 minutes or until the cheese is liquid. Enjoy with a chutney or with Eat Street larder products.

 

Black garlic

Black garlic  is a slow fermented garlic which is made over a 4 week period, keeping the bulbs in a low temperature, high humidity environment. It creates a soft but dense sweet garlic that can be eaten raw and almost has the texture and taste of liquorice! It is a must try!

 

profile view of black garlic


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